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A momentous stage has been reached in the ethical evolution of the major international fashion weeks; London Fashion Week (LFW) has become the first of the “big four” to prohibit wild animal skins as well as fur on its runways.
The news of the ban was confirmed by David Leigh-Pemberton, deputy director of policy and engagement at the British Fashion Council (BFC), in a speech to Parliament.
A fur-free policy had already been in place for LFW since last December. This latest announcement means that from early 2025 onwards, neither real fur nor exotic skins will be shown by brands at any editions of the clothing trade show.
When designers apply to feature at LFW from now on, they will be asked to agree to these conditions.
“The standards we apply to designers… continue to evolve”
In setting out the BFC’s modified stance, Mr Leigh-Pemberton drew attention to the “constructive challenges” that such organisations as Fur Free Britain and Collective Fashion Justice had presented to the LFW organisers.
Looking forward, he explained: “The standards we apply to designers showing on the official schedule continue to evolve, and we are now actively engaging with designers and the wider fashion community to discuss our approach to feathers on the catwalk.
“This work happens in the broader context of the fashion sector’s response to environmental and social concerns.”
It is a move that has, indeed, come about amid intensifying pressure from animal rights activists. The organisation People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) has been protesting at fashion weeks, with brands that use leather, fur, and exotic skin having seen their runway shows gatecrashed.
Peta’s vice-president of corporate projects, Yvonne Taylor, stated that it saluted “the compassionate British designers who helped usher in this policy.”
How does the LFW’s approach compare to other fashion weeks around the globe?
As pointed out by Vogue Business, the designers that typically appear at LFW – “many of which are smaller and less established than the luxury giants showing in Paris and Milan – tend not to use exotic skins in their collections anyway”.
However, there is still a very real significance to this change in policy by the BFC. It was previously smaller fashion weeks – including Copenhagen, Berlin, and Melbourne – that had implemented bans of this nature.
Mr Leigh-Pemberton’s reference to the LFW organisers considering their approach to feathers indicates that before long, the event could be putting in place an entirely wildlife-free policy.
World Animal Protection UK’s Dr Charlotte Regan commented that it, too, would now be focusing its energies on the fashion sector’s use of wild bird feathers.
She said the BFC’s announcement on prohibiting wild animal skins on the London catwalks “sends an important message throughout the global fashion industry that exploiting animals for their skins is both unethical and unnecessary.”
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Photo by Ayo Ogunseinde on Unsplash
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