The British Fashion Council (BFC), which organises London Fashion Week (LFW), has confirmed that the clothing trade show will become the first of the “big four” to adopt Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW)’s framework for minimum brand sustainability requirements. 

Schedule set out for the new criteria’s implementation

The minimum sustainability standards for Copenhagen – which LFW will now introduce for brands that are part of the NEWGEN incubation scheme – include having a formal Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) strategy and a diversity and inclusion policy for hiring. It is also expected under the CPHFW framework that brands use preferred materials, in addition to avoiding single-use props for fashion shows. 

The framework for CPHFW was first announced in 2019, with full implementation taking effect from Autumn/Winter 2023. 

In the case of London’s embrace of these standards, the requirements will be piloted throughout 2025 with brands participating in NEWGEN. Brands that seek admission to this talent initiative must already satisfy mandatory sustainability criteria. 

It is expected that full implementation of the requirements will follow for all NEWGEN brands showing from January 2026. After this, the BFC will work on building out a plan enabling the framework’s more comprehensive imposition across the LFW schedule. 

BFC hails “positive change across the global fashion industry” 

Chief executive at the BFC, Caroline Rush – who will step down from her role in June – stated the organisation was “thrilled to align with the Copenhagen Fashion Week Sustainability Requirements across BFC NEWGEN, which builds on our existing minimum standards and reaffirms our commitment to driving positive change across the global fashion industry.” 

She continued: “This partnership is a significant step in ensuring that sustainability becomes integral to the future of fashion.” 

The announcement marks the latest momentous step in the BFC’s sustainability journey since the launch of its Institute of Positive Fashion (IPF) think tank in 2020. 

It also does not mark the first time the organisation has followed in Copenhagen’s footsteps. It was confirmed in November 2024 that LFW would ban the use of exotic skins – such as crocodile and snake – in show collections. This made it the first of the “big four” to do so, Copenhagen having already banned exotics in March. 

How will London designers and brands cope with the new requirements? 

The short answer to this question might be… with relative ease, at least for some brands. The generally smaller and less established nature of many designers in London, compared to the fashion titans of Paris and Milan, may give them a simpler task in adapting their working practices to satisfy the new criteria. 

However, the expenditure that will be need be incurred in meeting the requirements is likely to concern some designers. Rising costs continue to be a headache for many brands in the wake of Brexit and the COVID-19 pandemic, and the wholesale market has also seen upheaval lately.

As London Shopify Plus experts and strategic digital professionals here at Skywire London, we will keep a close eye on the ongoing sustainability evolution impacting on fashion, luxury, and lifestyle brands in the capital, and we will report the latest developments. 

In the meantime, if you would appreciate help to drive forward your brand’s growth during 2025 and beyond, please don’t hesitate to contact our team. 

Photo by Andrej Lišakov on Unsplash