The overarching “headline” of London Fashion Week (LFW)’s spring-summer ’26 edition – at least in the lead-up – may have been that it was the first to take place under the leadership of new British Fashion Council (BFC) CEO Laura Weir. 

Sure enough, there were firm indications of the former Selfridges creative director having understood the assignment that had been handed to her. 

As Weir told Vogue Business: “This city has given rise to some of the world’s most original voices in fashion. I believe it is our collective duty as an industry and as a community to uphold London’s role as a global fashion capital.” 

But all eyes weren’t quite on the iconic trade show’s organisers. That’s because exhibitors and attendees alike brought to the fore all manner of talking points that look set to shape and influence many a luxury creative portfolio over the next few seasons. 

Here are just some of those topics of conversation that emerged. 

• A ‘Cold War’ between the preps and the punks 

For GQ style editor Mahalia Chang, at least one source of “friendly competition” didn’t escape notice, despite the sense of togetherness that tends to prevail at fashion-industry events in the 2020s. Or, to use Chang’s words, it was a “turf war” or even a “school rivalry” largely brewing outside the shows themselves. 

She noted, for example, that at Daniel W. Fletcher’s Mithridate at the Royal Opera House, a collection “heavy on prep” was in evidence, complete with “rugby shirts, polos, collegiate-style knits”. It was a vibe that the guests outside were content to play into, not least actor Harrison Osterfield, with his “extremely 2002” combo of two knit polos layered over each other. 

Sharp contrast was provided, however, by Chopova Lowena, where a “full-on art school” feel triumphed, including in a collection said to take its inspiration from “American football, cheerleading, and the silhouettes of Southern Bulgarian Karakachani costumes.” The guests here went for, as Chang put it, a suitably “detention-baiting take on uniforms.” 

• Witchy styles that threaten to far transcend Halloween 

The onset of October is a time when, as columnist for The Independent Olivia Petter put it, “an ominous aura envelops us all and everything suddenly looks a little darker”. But could at least a continuous thread of such darkness continue through the sunnier and warmer months? 

That seems to have been the proposition made by quite a few LFW SS26 shows. As evidence, the journalist highlighted the homage to various bird motifs in Harris Reed’s “The Aviary” collection. Here, Petter said, “gowns took flight via laced velvet corsets that branched out of the body like wings, while feathers on necklines created metre-wide silhouettes akin to talons.” 

Also attracting the author and broadcaster’s attention was the Turkish designer Bora Aksu’s collection taking broken dolls as its inspiration. The attire on show – including multiple all-black ensembles, complemented by such touches as lace headpieces and Harlequin tights – ostensibly celebrated imperfection, but also “summoned a witchy spirit.” 

As for what could be driving the fashion world to take on occult aesthetics quite this overtly, Petter observed: “The industry has a way of reflecting the sociopolitical issues of our age, and few could deny that we’re in somewhat dire straits across the board. Perhaps, then, tapping into the otherworldly, transcendental side of life is a comforting escape.” 

Put your fashion brand in the best position to grow through the spring – and beyond 

Certainly, the current landscape for high-end, lifestyle, and fashion businesses is bringing its fair share of tests. Along the way, though, scope is presented for innovation and ingenuity, including as far as digital impact is concerned. 

Why not, then, embrace that spirit by checking out examples of our previous successful partnerships in our luxury creative portfolio at Skywire London, before reaching out to us directly? 

When you do so, our creative and strategic experts in the UK capital will be pleased to discuss how our work together could help your brand realise its growth goals well into 2026, and over the ensuing years. 

Photo by Kazuo ota on Unsplash